(1)Kev zoo: Ntu ntu ntawm cov ntaub plaub fiber ntau yog kwv yees li ncig, thiab nws txoj kab uas hla feem ntau yog siv los qhia nws qhov tuab. Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb qhia txog qhov zoo thiab siv tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub plaub
Lub fineness ntawm wool sib txawv heev, nrog ib tug tsawg kawg nkaus txoj kab uas hla ntawm 7um thiab ib tug siab tshaj plaws thickness ntawm 240um. Txoj kev los qhia qhov fineness ntawm wool yog raws li nram no:
① Kev suav zoo: Nws yog txoj kev siv dav dav tshaj plaws hauv kev tsim cov ntaub plaub hauv ntau lub teb chaws thoob ntiaj teb. Raws li thaum ntxov xyoo pua 18th, raws li qib tam sim no ntawm cov cuab yeej spinning thiab thev naus laus zis, nrog rau cov kev xav tau zoo rau cov xov paj ntaub plaub, qhov siab tshaj plaws ntawm cov ntaub plaub ntawm ntau qhov zoo nkauj tiag tiag spun (Lus Askiv suav) yog hu ua kev suav zoo. Qhov no sawv cev rau qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub. Nrog rau txoj kev loj hlob ntawm kev tshawb fawb thiab thev naus laus zis, kev txhim kho ntawm cov txheej txheem textile, Nrog rau kev txhim kho txuas ntxiv ntawm cov kev xav tau ntawm textile zoo thiab kev ua tiav ntawm kev tshawb fawb fiber ntau, qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub tau maj mam poob nws qhov tseem ceeb. Tam sim no, cov kev suav zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub tsuas yog sawv cev rau qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub nyob rau hauv ib qho ntawm txoj kab uas hla.
② Qhov nruab nrab txoj kab uas hla: Lub fineness ntawm ntaub plaub yog feem ntau qhia nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm txoj kab uas hla. Vim yog qhov tsis sib xws ntawm cov ntaub plaub, tus naj npawb ntawm cov khoom ntsuas feem ntau yog loj. Rau homogeneous wool, 300 daim yog ntsuas, thiab rau heterogeneous wool, 400 daim yog ntsuas. Kev suav yog ua hauv pab pawg.
③ Kev ntsuas tus lej ntawm cov ceg: Nm=L/g
(2) Ntev: Vim muaj qhov ntuj curl, qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub plaub tuaj yeem muab faib ua ntuj ntev thiab ncaj ntev. Nyob rau hauv ntuj curl, qhov kev ncua deb ntawm ob kawg ntawm ib lub pob fiber ntau hu ua ntuj ntev. Feem ntau, ntuj ntev yog siv los sawv cev qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub plaub. Qhov ntev ntawm wool fibers tom qab tshem tawm ntawm kev khoov yog hu ua ncaj ntev. Hauv kev tsim cov ntaub plaub, qhov ntev ncaj yog feem ntau siv los ntsuas qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub
Qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub plaub yog qhov thib ob tsuas yog qhov zoo ntawm kev siv tshuab. Nws tsis tsuas cuam tshuam qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub plaub, tab sis tseem ceeb tshaj, nws yog lub hauv paus rau kev txiav txim siab spinning system thiab xaiv cov txheej txheem tsis.
(3) Curl: Wool muaj ib lub caij ntuj sov curl raws qhov ntev kev taw qhia, tseem hu ua plaub hau tsis,
Lub degree ntawm curl qhia nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm curl ib centimeter yog hu ua curl. Cov duab ntawm curl tuaj yeem muab faib ua hom hauv qab no:
Tsis muaj zog curl (coarse wool) Ib txwm curl (fine wool) Strong curl (zoo wool, plab plaub hau)
Nyob rau hauv ntau yam ntaub plaub, qhov zoo thiab ib nrab cortical txheej yog faib rau ob sab ntawm cov plaub hau ncej, nrog rau qhov zoo cortical txheej yog sab nrauv thiab ib nrab cortical txheej yog sab hauv.
Coarse thiab ntev ntaub plaub muaj ib tug zoo cortical txheej sib sau ua ke nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm cov plaub hau ncej, thiab ib nrab cortical txheej ncig ncig nws. Hom plaub hau no tsis muaj curls, xws li Linken plaub hau thiab mohair
"Qee cov plaub hau sib xyaw thiab muab faib rau hauv cov txheej txheem zoo thiab sab nraud cortical. Cov txheej txheem tsim cov xov paj ntawm cov fibers nrog cov curls loj yog qhov zoo rau kev sib koom ua ke, cov plaub hau poob qis, zoo cashmere shrinkage, thiab du thiab nruj."
Woolen fabrics xav tau ib tug tag nrho nto, zoo kov, thiab siab zog. Yog li ntawd, woolen yarns yuav tsum tau mos thiab muaj zog. Nws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws los xaiv cov muaj zog crimp fibers los ntawm cov khoom siv raw
Worsted wool fabrics xav tau cov kab ntshiab, mos luster, thiab cov duab tsis tu ncua, yog li cov xov paj ntaub yuav tsum du, zoo ib yam, thiab nruj. Yog li ntawd, nws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws los xaiv cov ntaub plaub fibers uas feem ntau curled thiab muaj qhov ntom ntom ntawm curl
Vim lub coarseness ntawm weakly crimped fibers, worsted yarns feem ntau tsis siv.
Lub curl thiab cov duab ntawm cov ntaub plaub muaj kev sib raug zoo nrog cov cashmere shrinkage ntawm cov khoom ntaub plaub. Feem ntau, qhov denser lub curl, ntau dua qhov elongation, thiab qhov zoo dua cov cashmere shrinkage.
(4) Net wool feem pua ntawm raw ntaub plaub: Thaum txiav txim siab cov dej noo rov qab, qhov feem pua ntawm cov ntaub plaub dawb huv rau cov ntaub plaub nyoos tau los ntawm kev ntxuav cov ntaub plaub kom tshem tawm cov roj, hws, thiab impurities
